Barbuda Island
By on
January 5th, 2009
Barbuda is part of a three-island state with Antigua and Redonda in the northeastern Caribbean. Less developed than Antigua, Barbuda has a wilder, more spontaneous beauty. In Barbuda you will see an island that is unspoilt by tourism. It is renowned for its deserted beaches sprinkled with pink sand, and miles long, a heavily-wooded interior abounding in birdlife, wild pigs and fallow deer. A visit to Codrington , the main village, makes an interesting excursion: the settlement is on the edge of a lagoon and the inhabitants rely largely on the sea for their existence.
Barbuda has one of the smallest populations in the Caribbean. Only about 1,500 people call this small island home.
Barbuda has the deep blue Atlantic on one side with wild beaches full of driftwood and shells and the calm Caribbean sea on the other, perfect for swimming and snorkeling, with plenty of opportunities to see turtles and many varieties of tropical fish undisturbed in the turquoise water.
The beauty of Barbuda is in its natural, peaceful way of life. It is not for visitors who are looking for sophisticated nightlife, it is a place where you relax, slow down and make your own entertainment.
The population of 1500 live in the village of Codrington. There are only four hotels on the island; the exclusive and expensive K Club where Princess Diana spent several of her holidays; the membership only very private Coco Point Lodge; the secluded North Beach; and The Beach House, recently opened. There are several small guest houses in the village, ranging from single rooms to self-catering cottages.
Village life is unaffected by tourism and if you are a guest here you will soon be part of the social life of the local people. Barbudans are helpful and friendly people and welcome visitors to their island.
Barbuda, 15 miles long and 8 miles wide, is mostly very rocky and flat. Much of the island is covered in bush and there are unmarked roads and tracks to the beaches. It is possible to cycle almost as easily as driving, as speed is of no importance here.
The bush hides all kinds of wildlife, including deer and boar, land turtles and guinea fowl, and the occasional wild cat. There are feral cattle, horses, and donkeys wandering about and in the village sheep and goats roam freely, returning to their pens at night. There are several salt ponds where it is possible to see a great variety of bird life, and in the lagoon the most spectacular of all the birds - the rare Magnificent Frigate Bird has a colony of approximately 2000 birds, one of the largest colonies in the world.
Barbuda Geography
Barbuda is located:
* between 17.31° - 17.45°N and 61.44° - 61.53°
* in the middle of the northeastern Caribbean Leeward Islands
* 120 km to the east of the Virgin Islands
* 40 km north of its sister island Antigua
* 725 km north of Trinidad and Tobago
Barbuda is about 175 sq km if the large lagoon on the west side is included in the total area. Two-thirds of the island consists of a flat plain raised only a few feet above sea level. The other third, the Highlands, is a relatively flat tableland with a maximum height of 42 metres.
Unlike most of the islands which form the eastern boundary of the Caribbean Sea, Barbuda is not of volcanic origin.The island is limestone and represents a coral reef which was raised above the sea in two successive stages. In the south the Highlands slope down to meet the plain. On the eastern windward side the Atlantic Ocean washes up on mostly rocky headlands. Much of the coastline is characterised by beach sands and fringed with coral reefs. Throughout its history Barbuda has been an exceptionally dangerous hazard to shipping.
Climate
Barbuda’s climate is sub-tropical with a temperature range from 18°C to 45°C. Rainfall is seasonal, with an average of 100 cm per year. There are no streams or lakes; fortunately underground water is found in reasonable quantities and water is obtained from wells. Vegetation tends to be scrubby woodland, with few trees over 10 metres, and numerous cacti and succulents. In contrast Codrington Village has colourful displays of Bougainvillea, Hibiscus, Pride of Barbados, and Lady of the Night, as Barbudans lovingly tend their gardens.
How to get to Barbuda?
By plane
There are no international flights to Barbuda; the international visitor has to travel to the sister island of Antigua first. A number of international carriers from North America, UK, and the Caribbean have flights to Antigua. Carib Aviation is the only airline to fly to Barbuda; LIAT no longer has flights.
Carib Aviation has two scheduled daily flights from the V C Bird International Airport. At present (1 May 2004) the approximate times of the daily flights are given below. Remember that these times are subject to change at short notice. The plane is a DHC-6 Twin Otter with a seating capacity of 19 people.
| airport | check-in time | departure | arrival |
|---|---|---|---|
| from Antigua to Barbuda | 7.00 am | 8.00 am | 8.15 am |
| 4.00 pm | 5.00 pm | 5.15 pm | |
| from Barbuda to Antigua | 7.00 am | 8.25 am | 8.40 pm |
| 4.00 pm | 5.25 pm | 5.40 pm |
The tickets can be booked through travel agents in Antigua or at the Carib Aviation desk at the international airport. The fare is EC$193 (US$74) return. The web designer has tried to buy these tickets in the UK without success.
Carib Aviation is unable to join the web site at the moment. However, they can be contacted at 268 462 3147; Carib personnel prefer to receive phone calls to email.
By boat
The Barbuda Express has started a ferry service between Barbuda and Antigua, while small cargo boats make the return trip to Antigua twice a week.
Barbuda express
In October 2004 the Barbuda Express started a ferry service between Barbuda and Antigua with a catamaran. The catamaran makes the trip seven days a week. For an up-to-date schedule visit the Barbuda Express web site at www.antiguaferries.com or contact Nathalie Nedd in Barbuda on 268 460 0059.
Frigate Bird colony in small boats holding 10 people with Barbudan guides. Lunch featuring chicken and fish is served onboard, with lobster as an option depending on availability. In the afternoon Excellence cruises down the beach past the Martello Tower, The K Club, and Coco Point Lodge to Spanish Point. Here guests can enjoy swimming and snorkeling before the passage home to Antigua.
The Excellence departs from Dickenson Bay at 9.30 am for the 1 hour 15 minutes voyage to Barbuda. Guests pay US$120 per person. For further information contact Tropical Adventures by phone on 268 480 1225 and 268 480 1226. Visit their web site at tropad@candw.ag. 
Bank: Antigua commercial bank
Once you have arrived in Barbuda you will be able to complete local and international transactions at the Antigua Commercial Bank near Codrington Airport. The bank opens on Mondays from 9 am to 4 pm, on Tuesdays, Wednesdays, and Thursdays from 8 am to 4 pm, and on Fridays from 8 am to 3 pm. The bank closes on public holidays.
Things to do and see on Barbuda!
Spectacular beaches!
Barbuda is one of the best beach destinations in the Caribbean; it has unspoilt beaches on all sides of the island. Usually you will be alone on the beach, except on the hotel beaches. Hotel beaches are open to all visitors as long as non-guests keep to the waterline.
Most of the beaches have no facilities so it is important to remember to take water and shade or find a place to keep out of the sun for some of the time. In some places when you have seen one beach you have seen them all, but in Barbuda each one is different, better than the last, and interesting enough to keep even the most cynical holidaymaker happy for hours.
The beaches can have dangerous currents at certain times of the year, but there are also areas that are perfect for children or non-swimmers, with shallow water and rock pools filled with tiny fish and crabs. There are aerial displays provided by pelicans diving close to the beach and everywhere you swim you will see fish darting about in the water.
On holiday weekends the beaches fill with Barbudans who take picnics very seriously and bring loud music, food, and truckloads of people to spend the day in the sea. In some of the cave areas people camp for several nights, catching and cooking fish, deer, and land turtle, which are often shared by everyone.
Exploring Barbuda
At Two Foot Bay and in other areas of the island there are huge caves to explore. In one are ancient cave drawings and in others it is possible to climb right through to the top of the Highlands and see for miles. Other caves go underground and underwater and require expert knowledge to explore them. Darby Cave is an extraordinary example of a sink hole and popular with visitors. It takes approximately 45 minutes to walk there from Highland House.
Darby Cave
Three and half miles north-east of Codrington Village is Darby Cave, a spectacular sink hole in the middle of the bush. It is well worth a visit to see the huge deep hole suddenly appear in front of you and wonder how it got there! The tops of tall palm trees are suddenly at eye level. Darby Sink Hole is over 100 metres in diameter and around 70 feet deep. One side of the hole has been greatly undercut and stalagmites up to 8 feet high have formed under the overhang. The vegetation resembles a mini rainforest with palms, ferns, and lianas. A local guide is essential for this trip.
Dark Cave
Three and half miles north-east of Codrington Village is Darby Cave, a spectacular sink hole in the middle of the bush. It is well worth a visit to see the huge deep hole suddenly appear in front of you and wonder how it got there! The tops of tall palm trees are suddenly at eye level. Darby Sink Hole is over 100 metres in diameter and around 70 feet deep. One side of the hole has been greatly undercut and stalagmites up to 8 feet high have formed under the overhang. The vegetation resembles a mini rainforest with palms, ferns, and lianas. A local guide is essential for this trip.
Dark Cave
Dark Cave is two miles to the south of Darby Cave. The cave has a narrow entrance leading to a vast cavern containing pools of water, which were probably a water source for Amerindian inhabitants as artefacts have been found nearby. Dark Cave is the habitat for several rare species of crustacea, including a blind shrimp.
Historical Sites
Throughout the island are the remains of settlements of the Arawaks, the first Amerindian inhabitants of Barbuda. Recently a human skeleton was found, dating back to these times. There are many known sites and it is quite easy to find fragments of pottery and conch shells used centuries ago. Visitors must obtain permission from the Barbuda Council before excavating any remains and it is essential that all artefacts are presented to the Council in order that they remain on the island. Click archaeology to learn more about excavations in Barbuda.
Codrington House
The ruins of Codrington House, known locally as “Willy Bob” or Highland House, is situated on the highest part of the island, about three miles north of Codrington Village. The floors and lower walls, and a large cistern are all that remain of the family settlement of the slave owners, the Codringtons. The view from the house is the best way to see most of the coastline of Barbuda.
The Martello Tower
The Martello Tower is near the beach at River, three miles south of the village. It is impossible to miss this site, all visitors pass by on their way to Coco Point and Access Beach. The tower has a raised gun platform and extremely thick walls, but is missing the floors. This type of fortification was modelled on a tower built on Cape Mortella during the Napoleonic Wars in the early nineteenth century. However, there was a fort on the site before, probably built by the Spanish.
Government House
Government House is located in the centre of Codrington Village, behind the Post Office. The building dates from 1694 and by the gate has a block for a rider to stand on to mount and dismount a horse. The building was lived in by the Wardens, who were the representatives of the British Government from the time the Codringtons left until 1976. The stables for Government House are now used as classrooms by the Holy Trinity School. Unfortunately the house was severely damaged by Hurricane Luis in 1995 and has yet to be repaired.
The Ginnery
The Ginnery is one of the buildings used by the Barbuda Council and was previously used as classrooms for the school. Salt and cotton were stored here from the days of slavery until well into the 1900s. The salt was still coated on the walls 10 years ago when the web designer taught here and one could see dates and quantities stencilled on the beams.
Other original buildings
In Codrington Village are many original buildings, old houses, and dry stone walls. Some have been incorporated into newer buildings and others remain. At one time the whole village was walled to prevent animals from entering. There are several wells that are still used by Barbudans for their water supply.
Scattered round the island are many ruined stone look-outs and storage buildings. The one at Gun Shop Cliff, to the east of Highland House, is said to have been erected in the late nineteenth century as part of a phosphate mining operation which took place in one of the caves.
In very dry weather the salt ponds sparkle with crystalline sea salt that is still harvested here. A bush safari will delight bird watchers and nature lovers, stopping for a picnic in the shade and a swim in the sea.
Diving
Around the coast of Barbuda there are many wrecks from different periods of the island’s history. There are experienced divers on the island who can guide visitors to the wrecks and it is possible to hire scuba diving equipment. Wrecks are often in dangerous water and it is important to seek local advice before attempting to explore them.
Fishing
As there are many fishermen and women on the island it is always possible to go fishing, either out at sea or in the calm lagoon water. Many people have boats and will take visitors for fishing trips, bringing home barracuda, shark, tuna, and other types of local fish. Catching lobster is also relatively easy as they are a specialty of the island and can be caught by hand or in specially crafted fish pots.
Frigate Bird Sanctuary
One of the main tourist attractions is the Magnificent Frigate Bird Sanctuary, situated in the Codrington Lagoon. It is a forty-minute boat ride and is a spectacular sight even for non-bird watchers. In the mating season from September to April this rare bird displays a huge red breast to attract a female mate and they lay one egg on a nest, built precariously on the mangrove. These birds cannot walk or swim; they soar high in the clouds and live solely on fish, which they often steal from other birds, giving them their local name Man’o'war. They have few predators here and this nesting site is one of the most important in the world for these endangered birds.
Eating Out
There are two restaurants in Barbuda, several snack shops and five or six bars ranging from rum shops to bars with TV and pool tables. Most cater for local people’s needs as few guests from the hotels frequent them, those that do enjoy their lively weekend atmosphere. The best way to buy local food is to go out to a food fair or fish fry at the weekend. There are always people barbecuing on the street and the fish is always fresh from the sea. Local specialties at food fairs include deer meat, land turtle, lobster, crab, conch, local beef and lamb or goat, with side dishes of rice, fungi, or dumplings. Local drinks include soursop, ginger beer, sea moss, and tamarind juices.
Shopping
There are several shops that sell groceries and fresh food. All supplies come by boat or by plane from various places via Antigua. The best time to look for fruit and vegetables is when the boat comes in on Friday or Saturday. Many people sell their own produce at different times throughout the year and this is when the best organically grown produce is available.
Fish is brought in at the Lagoon Wharf nearly every day in good weather. Locally produced meat is often for sale from a table on the street; there are no butchers, it helps to remember those posters in the butchers showing where sirloin steak is on an animal before you buy!
There are several variety stores selling all kinds of essential household items and clothes, many of them have gifts and T-shirts.
There is a small shop where local handicrafts are for sale to visitors and an Artcafe where visitors are welcome to read information about the island, buy a map, or seek advice. This is the residence of the artist, Claire Frank, who specialises in hand-painted silk pictures and cards.
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